OUCH! My guitar hurts what the....?

I wish I had a dollar for every time I heard this lament. I've often thought about all of the "would be" guitar players
that abandoned the idea when they experienced "hard to press" strings. To me, it's sad because many times, it was the guitar itself.
To be frank, "virgin fingers" will definitely feel some discomfort for the guitar requires, like many things in life, an
adaptation to its physical requirements to producing sound. Rather, it should in fact, be somewhat easy to start playing, especially if the guitar is built well and "set up" appropriately.
Lets look at some scenerio's dealing with what I call "THE OUCH FACTOR"

Scene 1: "I want a guitar!"
A kid wants a guitar. A parent or friend ( with good intentions ) goes out, buys a guitar and as a surprise, gifts it to him or her.
The initial challenge is, what type of guitar is it? , is the size correct? , does it play easily? The guitar may be a huge challenge for a number
of reasons, too large of a body style... heavy gauge strings, old corroded strings, high action ( where strings are too far away from the fingerboard, )
poor intonation, ( good sound is compromised ), and the list goes on.

Solution: 
Bring the new player to an experienced guitarist or to a reputable music store / guitar service shop for help in choosing the right guitar. 
It will make a big difference in allowing the new player a chance to continue on without experiencing discomfort and poor sound.

Scene 2: "Grandpa's old Guitar"
Why go buy a new guitar when you can dig out the old guitar in the attic or whatever?  Now if we're lucky it might be a beautiful, well crafted
example the guitar but in many cases, it's not... the strings are old and there may even be a few missing. String tension, over prolonged time
coupled with either high or low humidity conditions can cause challenges also.

Solution: 
Bring Grandpa's" old guitar to a professional luthier / guitar service shop and have them evaluate it. In many cases, it does not cost a lot
to get it ready or set up for it's second or third life with a new player. There's quite a sentiment towards vintage guitars and some are worth a few bucks
so have it appraised when you bring it in.

Scene 3: "The Infamous Cheapie Guitar"
Yep, you heard it. "Why spend a lot of money on a good guitar when Billy may not even end up playing it."
As a certified Luthier and Guitar Repair Service AND an accomplished guitarist and teacher, I have to say many...yes MANY new players walk away
from what would be a wonderful instrument to learn...but...the OUCH Factor ocurred.
This is exactly the point here...if Billy can't play it because the guitar is very poorly built and it also sounds like some alien notes are spewing from it,
every time he or she strums a chord, you can kiss his or her interest goodbye. Would you buy a cheap, poorly built car for your kid's first car? Hello.
Keep in mind, if the quality guitar is not played, you can generally re-sell it for what you had into it.

Solution: 
Look for a reputable brand of guitar...Taylor, Martin, Gibson, Fender, Ibanez and Epiphone to mention a few. Start if possible, with a subsized 
guitar like a 3/4 size acoustic or a parlor model. The travel well and are easy to handle and play. Some of my favorites are the Baby Taylor ( trending at
$175. - 200 and the Taylor GS MINI ( trending at $350-400 ). If your on a budget, check out some of the Ibanez youth or student models in the $100 range.

So my friends, if you or someone you know experiences the OUCH Factor, call us or stop by the shop because we specialize in "Ouch Removal"!
We are Born Again Guitars LLC - Certified Repair, Restoration and Custom Builds Wake Forest, NC 27587
Visit us at BornAgainGuitars.com

Stay Tuned!

"Just in Case"

AKA: Care & Protection of the Guitar

Opening Scene: My basement studio

It's a band rehearsal and the floor is strewn with the usual array of 1/4" cables and XLR's. 

Enter my keyboard guy laden with the keys and he trips on a cable and I watch in horror as my 1976 Les Paul deluxe, which was on a "cheapie" stand,

heads for a faceplant on my linoleum covered, concrete floor. With a knot in my stomach, I approach the guitar, now lying face down, still echoing

the faint sounds of the A11/E chord. Slowly and carefully, I raise her up, expecting the worse...and to my delight, all is well short of a small

dent on the binding. Nothing short of a miracle...thank God.

Needless to say, I've never used a cheapie stand again...and no cords attached until it's ready to rock.

So let's talk more about protection in general. When I was in Luthier college, I remember Bryan Galloup telling us that best place for a guitar is in 

the case when not being played. Bryan is the owner of the acclaimed Galloup School of Lutherie and Guitar Repair in Big Rapids, Michigan.

Cases were designed to protect the instrument especially under the rigors of travelling to and from gigs. Not to make a pun, but in my case, it was my 

1961 Fender Strat ( which I still have ), and the hardshell case has been a good protector over the years and it was my "moneymaker" for quite a few 

years. It did not see a lot of air transport which would have required a much more protective case, but served me well.

The guitar case today comes in many styles and designs and can be anything from Aircraft aluminum style anvil cases, to ABS molded, to steel and pvc

hardshell types, heavy padded-foam filled styles, thick padded-soft sided gigbags, oldstyle chipboard and finally the thin, nylon, zipper styles which I 

refer to as dust covers only. They are all capable of protecting the instrument yet all have a specific capability and level of protection. The best example

I can remember is when I started to ride motorcycles as a kid, I bought a cheap $30 helmet and a friend asked me why I bought it. I said it was to save my

bucks. Then he said, "wouldn't you rather spend $100 and save your brain?" Then the bulb went on!

At my shop, I get quite a few guitars in for repair and lot's of them were a result of not keeping them in the case along with damages resulting from

a crappy case. I can almost trace the cause by the nature of the repair needed. It's a no brainer, less protection?...the higher risk of damage.

Here's a few do's and dont's;

Don't- leave an uncased OR cased leaning up against anything

Don't- place loose accessories in the case- use the compartments and even then put them in a cloth or bag.

Don't- Leave your case or guitar near excessive heat, moisture or cold.

Don't- Pack your cased guitar into a tight space, it may damage clasps and locks

Do- Use a protective case that matches appropriately the value of your instrument

Do- Make sure the case FITS the guitar and prevents excessive "freeplay" or movement

Do-Keep your case maintained as you would your instrument. Use proper cleaners and lubricate locks and clasps

Do- Keep the guitar In the case when not being used

As a final note...although solid body guitars are less prone to suffer the effects of "bumps" and jolts remember that acoustic guitars are are

are especially prone to have damages occur based on the construction however...in the world of guitars, treat them all with respect and care.

If you have a guitar that needs repair or restoration, feel free to call us. We treat everyone's guitar as if it were our own...and remember my

friends, "Stay Tuned"

hans

BornAgainGuitars.com

"STRINGS ATTACHED"

Ask a guitar player as to which strings they prefer-and get ready for a "cornucopia" of responses.

It's quite a subjective discussion and there is a myriad of choices out there in the sales racks.

The point is...are you selecting the best strings for your GUITAR...or for your personal liking...or both?

"Both" is the correct answer. Here's a few helpful facts you may enjoy.

As a luthier / player and  full service shop, I see a lot of guitars and at least 25-30% come in with strings that, in my opinion, are not exactly the best choice available...especially on acoustics. So let's start with acoustics, where there is a tad more discipline involved.  Acoustic guitars mandate a particular gauge of string, simply based on the design, configuration, style and construction of the guitar. The physics and design of quality acoustic guitars is an intricate craft and it is a serious business to achieve optimum performance for a fine instrument. Choice of woods, tolerances, bracing and design all play an integral part and the strings must be the gauge recommended by the maker. Although I myself am a "non conforming, free spirit", I have learned to be respectful of this rule.

My findings are that many acoustic players change to lighter gauge for ease and comfort, most times delighted with the ability to "push them around a bit more" and use more vibrato. I am guilty of that too. In those old days, I didn't pay much attention to any nuances or differences but here's what I eventually noted:

The nut of the guitar is slotted. Those slots were cut to match the gauge of strings specified...say mediums. Lighter gauge strings then would have

a tad more "freeplay" within the slots which comprimises intonation, harmonics, vibration and sustain.

Always contact the guitar maker and get string specs or google info and check chatrooms or blogs. As an authorized Taylor Service Center, we have a complete set of specs for every model and can also provide specs for many other notable guitar makers. It's always good to experiment with other

strings but keep in mind the ramifications. String tension changes will effect dynamics and usually require a truss rod adjustment, so learn what works best for your guitar.

Some players conversely put medium strings on smaller bodied guitars that require lights, expecting more volume. In most cases it does not provide any

increase in volume and if anything, will increase neck relief in which case they would have to tighten truss rod to adjust tension. The concern here is pulling up the bridgeplate and swelling the guitar top.

The other consideration is of course player style. I play fingerstyle but I also play hard so i pound, palm mute, chunk and pluck. I switched from light to light/heavy. I go through strings a bit more often than my buddies but I'm happy. But let's say your a fingerstyle player with a light touch. You may like something with medium bass side and extra light top. Also, open tunings will require more hybrid sets so you need to find that perfect combo.

Today, because of the technology and breakthroughs in string production, there is a wonderful array of hybrid mixtures. Find out also what material choices may work best for you. Nickel plated, Phosphor bronze, etc. It will help you establish "your sound and tone".

When you do wish to try different gauge strings, I suggest recording some of your music with the current strings, then change to the new set and give them some time to stretch...and record the new set. Make some notes. Play with and without effects ( clean ). You will be able to compare the nuances and find the right string choice and, life will be good.

As far as solid and semi-solid body guitars...there's more "frontier" out there...color, gauge, composition...and it relates more directly to what style

is played...heavy metal, jazz, blues, rockabilly, alternative and every other genre. Less risk here... and whether you shred, sweep, fingerpick, or strum, the choices are almost endless. Guitars and bass guitars today can be setup for just about any playing style and accommodate a wider selection of strings.

As a closing note, here at BornAgainGuitars, we often get guitars in that have "dead" I mean "dead" strings, basically corroded and rusty. It's not uncommon when someone is an occasional player, to put a guitar away without wiping off both the guitar and the strings. Not good! The strings have both moisture ( natural acids ) and dead skin on them, it also transfers to the neck and collects near the base of the frets. Try to get into the habit of wiping down the strings and the guitar after playing. This will help you get optimum service of the strings and the guitar will play much smoother. Make sure the guitar is not stored where there are any extreme temperature changes. Controlled humidity is essential to "Guitar Health" Try to keep humidity to between 50-55% RH.

So there's a couple of helpful hints my friends, enjoy the music and go find that "right string" and do your thing...it's all good.

...and  STAY TUNED!!!

Hans    

info@BornAgainGuitars.com

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